Sleek, slick and cosmopolitan, Geneva is a rare breed of city: it's among Europe's priciest, its people chatter in every language and it's constantly perceived as the Swiss capital (it isn't). Superbly strung around the shores of Europe's largest Alpine lake, Switzerland's second-largest city has only half the population of Zürich; yet the whole world is here: 200-odd governmental and nongovernmental international organisations fill Geneva's plush hotels, feast on its international cuisine and help prop up its famed overload of banks, luxury jewellers and chocolate shops. But where's the urban grit? Not in the lakeside's silky-smooth promenades and iconic fountain of record-breaking heights, nor in its pedestrian Old Town. To find the rough cut of the diamond, dig into the Pâquis quarter or walk along the Rhône's industrial shores where local neighbourhood bars hum with attitude. This is the Geneva of the Genevois…or as close as you'll get to it.